KINKOMA EMBROYDERY

Kinkoma embroidery is a technique in which thick gold thread that cannot be threaded through an embroidery needle is wound around a wooden spool, and then the thread is placed on the fabric along the outline, while being secured with a thin thread.

The three-dimensional effect of the voluminous gold thread creates a luxurious effect that cannot be achieved with embroidery thread.

During the Muromachi period(From 1336 to 1568), Ming embroidery, which uses thick thread to cover the entire surface and embroiders flowers and birds in a three-dimensional manner, was introduced to Japan through trade with Ming China.
In the following Momoyama period(From 1568 to 1600), a technique called Watashi-nui, which uses thick embroidery thread, was developed from Ming embroidery.
However, at that time, patterned textiles such as Karaori were still more highly regarded than embroidery techniques, so Watashi-nui was more of a substitute that imitated textiles.

It is said that after Ming embroidery and Watashi-nui, Koma embroidery became all the rage as a decorative embroidery technique during the Kanbun period in the early Edo period(From 1603 to 1868.)
This is probably related to the fact that the technology for using gold leaf in dyeing and weaving made a great leap forward around this time.
Starting with the Kanbun kosode kimonos produced during this period, many of them use Koma embroidery.

Kinkoma embroidery is one of Japan's traditional embroidery techniques, a gorgeous decorative technique that has been used especially on high-end kimonos, Noh costumes, uchikake, etc. It is a unique technique in which gold thread is manipulated with a tool called a "koma" and placed on the fabric, then secured with fine threads, and it requires particularly advanced skills even among Japanese embroidery.

🔹 The origin of Kinkoma embroidery

The technique of Kinkoma embroidery itself has its roots in gold thread embroidery from China and India, and is said to have been introduced to Japan along with Buddhist culture.

In particular, embroidery using gold thread can be seen on temple decorations, Buddhist implements, and costumes from the Nara to Heian periods, and it later developed into a technique unique to Japan.

🔹 Historical development

● Nara and Heian periods (8th to 12th centuries)

Gold thread embroidery techniques were introduced as decoration for Buddhist art and Buddhist altar implements.

Embroidery during this period was called "Shubutsu" and was used to express Buddhist statues and mandalas.

● Kamakura and Muromachi periods (12th to 16th centuries)

With the development of samurai culture and Noh, gold embroidery was applied to Noh costumes and hitatare.

It is thought that techniques such as Kinkoma were established along with luxurious designs.

● Edo period (17th to 19th centuries)

The technique of Kinkoma embroidery was established and was often used for wedding costumes, uchikake, Noh costumes, and Kabuki costumes for samurai and daimyo.

Craftsmen were active in the centers of dyeing, weaving, and embroidery, such as Kyoto and Kaga (present-day Ishikawa Prefecture).

In the late Edo period, it was accepted as a luxurious style of attire even among townspeople.

● Meiji period and after

Western embroidery techniques were introduced during the Meiji period, but kinkoma embroidery was preserved as a traditional craft and was positioned as a luxury item, mainly for wedding and stage costumes.

The technique continues to be passed down in places such as Nishijin in Kyoto, and today some embroidery artists are designated as Important Intangible Cultural Properties.