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Jukouori is a technique that uses sewing crepe. The pattern is not expressed by dyeing, but by sewing in dyed gold threads and colored threads, which requires very detailed work and results in a heavy, solid finish.
Jukouori is said to have been used as warp silk to cover Buddhist statues in Buddhist temples during the Nara period(710 to 794). Later, during the Heian period, it came to be used as an ornament in the imperial court and among aristocrats, and was characterized by its gorgeous colors, delicate patterns, and high luster, which were achieved using silk thread.
Jukouori is highly regarded among Japan's traditional crafts for its history, technique, and beauty.
Production process of Kotobuki weaving
1. Preparation of white fabric
In Kotobuki weaving, high-quality white fabric (mainly Tango crepe) is first prepared. This white fabric is a very important process because it will affect the later dyeing and embroidery.
2. Sewing crepe technique
"Kotobuki weaving" uses the "sewing crepe" technique. This is a technique in which gold and colored threads are sewn in during the weaving stage to create a pattern, and it requires very detailed work. This technique creates a pattern with the three-dimensionality of embroidery and the depth of dyeing.
3. Expression of the pattern
The pattern is expressed by weaving in gold and colored threads. This creates subtle shadows and three-dimensionality that cannot be expressed by dyeing, resulting in a heavy-looking finish.
4. Finishing and dyeing
The finished fabric is beautiful as it is, but it can also be dyed later. Dyeing makes the pattern stand out more and adds depth to the color. Dyeing also makes the pattern more vivid.
Characteristics of Kotobuki-ori
Solid and solid: The pattern is expressed at the weaving stage, resulting in a solid and solid finish.
Luxury: The use of gold and colored threads creates a luxurious finish.
Freedom of dyeing: The color can be freely adjusted by post-dyeing, allowing for a finish that suits individual tastes.
Kotobuki-ori is widely known as a high-quality fabric suitable for special occasions due to its sophisticated techniques and beautiful finish. The production process is very time-consuming, but the finished product is worth using for a lifetime.
