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■ What is Tsume Tsuzure Weaving?
"Tsuzure weaving" is a traditional weaving technique that originated in China and is said to have been introduced to Japan between the Nara and Heian periods. Among them, "Tsume Tsuzure" is a technique unique to Japan, characterized by the use of the weaver's fingernails as tools.
◎ Origin of the name
The "tsume" in "tsume tsuzure" comes from the fact that weavers use their fingernails to push the threads together (i.e. bind). The nails are trimmed to have jagged edges like a comb, and the patterns are delicately created with the nails.
■ Characteristics of the technique
1. High artistry through hand weaving
Each weave is woven by pushing the threads with the toes.
The technique is characterized by creating patterns using only fingertips and nails, without using a reed or shuttle.
It is also called "woven embroidery" because the design is faithfully woven like a painting.
2. Pictorial expression
A flat weaving technique in which the color and type of thread is partially changed to create a pattern.
The resulting obi is like a work of art.
It can also express three-dimensionality and shadows.
3. Time-consuming and labor-intensive
It can take several hours to weave 1 cm, and it can take several months to weave a single obi.
■ Tsume Tsuzure Weaving Craftsmen
Craftsmen need many years of training, and many are nationally certified as "traditional craftsmen."
Care for the nails, how to file them, and how much pressure to use also require skilled techniques.
■ Challenges of preservation and inheritance
Due to a lack of successors and an aging workforce, the number of craftsmen who can weave tsume tsuzure is decreasing.
Because it is an expensive product, there is little circulation in the general market.
Preserving traditional crafts and nurturing young craftsmen are considered challenges.
◆ Origin and history of Tsume Tsuzureori
◎ 1. The origin is ancient Chinese "Tsuzureori"
The roots of Tsuzureori date back to the Warring States period and the Han dynasty in China before Christ.
Tapestry weave, which is made by weaving patterns using silk, was made for the imperial court.
This technique spread to Central Asia, Persia, and Europe, and developed in its own way in each region (e.g. Gobelin weaving).
◎ 2. Introduction to Japan (Nara period to Heian period)
It is believed to have been introduced to Japan from China along with Buddhism during the Nara period (8th century).
Initially, it was used for Buddhist ornaments (woven fabric and decorations behind Buddhist statues) and costumes for aristocrats.
During the Heian period, "Tsuzureori" began to be used for costumes and furnishings for the imperial court.
◎ 3. Kamakura and Muromachi Periods: Development as a Decorative Fabric
After the Kamakura Period, samurai culture developed, and Tsuzure weaving began to be used for Noh costumes, robes, festival costumes, and so on.
From this period, decorativeness and religious and artistic value began to be emphasized.
◎ 4. Edo Period: Appearance and Establishment of Tsuzure Weaving
During the mid- to late Edo Period (around the 18th century), a unique Japanese "technique using nails" was established in contrast to traditional Tsuzure weaving.
A unique style was born in which patterns were expressed using only the weaver's fingertips and nails, without using tools such as a reed or shuttle.
Around this time, the style of weaving by filing the tips of the nails into a comb shape with a file or similar tool became established.
→ This is the origin of the current "Tsume Tsuzure Weaving".
The development of the technique was particularly remarkable in Nishijin, Kyoto, and it became known as "Nishijin-ori Tsuzure".
◎ 5. Meiji to Showa: Rising Artistic Value and International Recognition
In the Meiji era, sashes and ornaments made from tsuzure were exhibited at international expositions overseas, and were recognized internationally as art and craft items.
In the Meiji era, tsuzure also attracted attention as an art textile, and tapestries that looked like paintings were produced.
In the early Showa era, tsuzure was also used as a gift for the Imperial Family, and the high level of craftsmanship became known both at home and abroad.
◎ 6. Present Day: Inheritance and Challenges as a Traditional Craft
Today, it is designated as a traditional craft as "Nishijin-ori tsuzure (Kyoto)" and "Hakata tsuzure (Fukuoka)".
However, because it requires advanced skills, the decline in the number of craftsmen and the lack of successors are major issues.
On the other hand, there is still demand for it for the restoration of cultural properties, stage costumes, and as art works, and preservation and inheritance activities are also being carried out.
Paintings made with thread. Miracles created by fingernails.
**Soshi Tsuzureen** is a specialized workshop in Nishijin, Kyoto, that specializes in the traditional craft of "Tsumekakihon Tsuzureori." You can see and experience up close the extremely delicate and beautiful technique in which artisans weave silk threads using their fingernails. This is a rare spot where you can experience traditional Japanese beauty through workshop tours and weaving experiences.
Go to the Tsume tsuzureori fukusa sales page.
