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Gold and silver threads are decorative threads with a metallic sheen, and are often used in Nishijin-ori obi belts and formal fabrics. Nishijin-ori uses these gold and silver threads to weave gorgeous patterns and designs.
Types of gold and silver thread
1. Hirakin
Gold leaf (or aluminum leaf) is applied to washi paper, which is then cut into thin strips and woven into threads.
Characteristics: The finished product is flat and shiny. The most basic gold thread.
2. Yorikin
Hirakin is wrapped around a core thread (silk, cotton, etc.).
Characteristics: It has a three-dimensional, sparkling shine, giving the fabric depth.
3. Hakushi
Ultra-thin metal foil is used as thread. In recent years, polyester or nylon film has also been used.
Characteristics: Very thin, allowing for delicate expression.
4. Gold mohair thread (mohair)
A decorative thread made by wrapping a metallic-like film around a fluffy thread.
Characteristics: It is both glossy and soft.
Manufacturing process (example)
Gold leaf production (stretching gold to less than 0.0001mm)
Gold leaf application (applying gold leaf to washi paper)
Cutting (cutting into threads)
Twisting (wrapping around a core thread)
Finishing (adjusting tension and softness)
Kyoto is also home to craftsmen and workshops that specialize in gold and silver thread, and they finish the work by hand with delicate techniques based on their long experience and intuition.
Uses for Nishijin-ori
Decorative parts of fukuro-obi, Nagoya-obi, karaori, etc.
Stage costumes, Noh costumes, textiles for festivals at shrines and temples
Wedding costumes (uchikake, irotomesode, etc.)
Although embroidery thread in Kyoto Nishijin is somewhat overshadowed by textiles, it has developed into an important element for luxurious decoration and formality. Nishijin embroidery is combined with weaving and is used for ceremonial attire and highly artistic kimonos, obi, and Noh costumes.
Here we will introduce in detail the types of embroidery thread and production techniques used in Kyoto Nishijin.
Types of Nishijin embroidery thread
1. Silk thread (kenshi/kinuito)
Characteristics: Shiny, supple, and good color. The most basic of Japanese embroidery.
Uses: Homongi, tomesode, Noh costumes, uchikake, etc.
Number of colors: Over 1,000 colors. Subtle gradations are possible through hand dyeing.
Technique: Shadows and three-dimensional effects are expressed by adjusting the strength and number of twists.
2. Gold and silver threads
Metal foil is pasted on washi paper, cut into thin strips, and wrapped around silk threads, etc.
Examples of use: Often used to border and accent patterns such as phoenixes, clouds, and pine trees.
Types:
Twisted gold thread
Flat gold thread
Kizamigane thread
3. Urushiito (lacquered thread)
As an alternative to gold leaf, it has a deep luster such as jet black or vermilion, and is rare in modern times.
4. Shibori (tie-dyed thread)/Twisted thread
Several strands of thread are twisted together and used.
The expression changes depending on the direction and strength of the twist. Fine adjustments made by hand are a showcase of craftsmanship.
5. Dyed thread (gradation thread)
Dyed so that the color shifts within a single thread. Enhances the effect of blurring and shading.
Techniques and Production Skills
Nishijin embroidery is not limited to simply applying patterns, but has developed techniques that bring the fabric to life as if it were "painting a picture."
Main embroidery techniques
Technique name Description
Koma embroidery Gold and silver threads are placed on the fabric, and then fixed by stitching while moving it with a tool called a koma. This is the most formal technique and is often used in Nishijin.
Sagara embroidery A technique in which granular knots are stitched in a row. It is suitable for decorations with a three-dimensional effect.
Flat stitch embroidery Silk thread is sewn flatly as it is. A basic technique for creating the foundation of a pattern.
Pull-out stitches and overlapping stitches Multiple colored threads are layered or pulled out halfway to create a gradation effect.
Nuihaku An advanced decorative method in which embroidery is applied over a layer of foil.
Kyoto Nishijin embroidery production process (traditional process)
Drawing: The pattern is drawn by hand (or using a stencil).
Thread selection and dyeing: Silk threads and gold and silver threads are dyed and colored according to the pattern.
Embroidery process: A skilled craftsman stitches while layering, twisting, and untwisting the threads.
Finishing, steaming, and shaping: The fabric is tensioned and shaped, and finally steamed to complete the piece.
Characteristics and Cultural Significance
Nishijin embroidery is a fusion of weaving and embroidery, resulting in textiles of higher artistic quality.
It is still widely used today for Noh costumes, Kabuki costumes, and festival costumes for shrines and temples.
Nishijin embroidery artisans have undergone decades of training to pass on the tradition.
Go to the 24K Gold thread (Real gold thread) sales page.
Go to the Gold Leaf thread sales page.
Go to the Silver Leaf thread sales page.
Go to the Real Platinum Leaf thread sales page.
Go to the sales page for Silover leaf thread color.
Go to the Urushi (Japanese lacquer) thread sales page.
Go to the Metal thread sales page.
Nishijin colors bring your handiwork to life
🏯 Origin of Nishijin
The name "Nishijin" comes from the Onin War (1467-1477) in the Muromachi period (15th century).
During the Onin War, the Western Army, which supported Yoshimasa Ashikaga's younger brother Yoshimi Ashikaga, set up camp west of Horikawa in Kyoto, and this place was called "Nishijin."
After the war ended, textile craftsmen returned to the area and resumed weaving, and the place came to be called "Nishijin."
📜 ① Nara and Heian Periods (8th to 12th Centuries)
The Shosoin Treasures in Nara already contained advanced textiles (nishiki and twill).
After the capital was moved to Heian-kyo (794), dyeing and weaving technicians were gathered together and textile production for the imperial court began.
There was even an official position called "Oribe no Tsukasa."
🏯 ② Muromachi Period to Onin War (14th-15th century)
Influenced by imports from China and the Ming Dynasty, luxurious textiles such as brocade and donsu were created.
Although production was temporarily halted due to the Onin War, it was revived after the war and revived under the name of Nishijin.
👘 ③ Edo Period (1603-1868)
Nishijin textiles gained fame nationwide.
They were distributed as high-quality textiles for obi and costumes for the shogunate, feudal lords, and wealthy townspeople.
Along with dyed fabrics such as Kaga Yuzen, Nishijin is a symbol of Japanese clothing culture.
🧵 ④ Meiji to Taisho Period (1868-1920s)
The Meiji Restoration caused the collapse of samurai society, and Nishijin temporarily declined.
However, the **Jacquard machine** (patterned loom) was introduced from France, and modern production began.
Recovered with support from the Nishijin Textile Industry Association (founded in 1915) and others
🖼️ ⑤ Showa to present
Diversified into Noh costumes, formal obi and kimono, temple and shrine altar accessories, interior decoration, and art.
In 1976, Nishijin textiles were designated a traditional craft by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
Currently, long-established businesses with over 400 years of history and young creators are active, promoting the industry both domestically and internationally.
Nishijin means "a thousand-year-old city painted with thread."
The name dates back to when artisans returned to war-torn areas and began weaving thread again,
and its history is also a microcosm of Japan's dyeing and weaving techniques and clothing culture.
