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🏯 History of Nishijin-ori
1. Origin: Heian Period (794~)
In 794, when the capital was moved to Heian-kyo, the position of "Oribe no Tsukasa" was created to weave clothing for the imperial court, and silk fabric production began.
The weaving techniques of this period are the origins of Nishijin-ori.
2. Sengoku Period: Onin War (1467~)
The Onin War in Kyoto forced weavers to temporarily evacuate.
After the war subsided, weavers returned to an area called "Nishijin" and resumed weaving. The name of this area is the origin of the word "Nishijin-ori."
3. Azuchi-Momoyama to Edo Period (16th to 19th Centuries)
Nishijin-ori developed more advanced techniques to meet the demands of the shogunate, feudal lords, and nobles, and luxurious gold brocade and donsu fabrics appeared.
As the techniques became more diverse, the weaving methods, thread types, and designs became more specialized.
4. Meiji to Showa Period
In the Meiji Period, Western looms and techniques were introduced, and modernization progressed.
In 1887, jacquard looms were introduced, making it possible to mass-produce complex patterns.
In the early Showa Period, Nishijin-ori reached its peak as Japanese clothing became more popular.
5. Modern Day (Heisei to Reiwa Period)
Nishijin-ori temporarily declined due to a decrease in demand for kimonos, but its value as a traditional craft is being reevaluated.
In modern times, it is being applied to new fields such as interior design, art, fashion, and overseas expansion.
Characteristics of Nishijin-ori
Various weaving techniques: There are more than a dozen techniques, including tsuzure weaving, tsuzure weaving, nishiki weaving, brocade, and karaori weaving.
High-quality materials: Mainly made with silk thread, with gold and silver threads also used.
Artistic designs: Extremely intricate patterns are woven into the fabric, ranging from traditional motifs to modern designs.
The status and cultural value of Nishijin-ori
Designated as a "traditional craft" in 1976 (Minister of International Trade and Industry/current Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry)
Nishijin-ori is a symbol of Japan's textile culture and is also known as the "crystal of technology."
By combining the handiwork of artisans with machine weaving, it has maintained its high artistic quality even today.
Main types (techniques) of Nishijin-ori
There are more than 30 weaving techniques for Nishijin-ori, but here are some of the most common ones.
Technique Characteristics
Tsuzureori (Tsuzure-ori) Hand-woven to create a pattern that is drawn one layer at a time. Has a tapestry-like texture. Highly formal, often used for obi belts.
Nishikiori (Nishiki-ori) Uses many colored threads to weave complex and gorgeous patterns. Derived from ancient Chinese brocade. A representative technique of Nishijin-ori.
Karaori (Karaori) A gorgeous floating weave. Characterized by a three-dimensional effect that makes the pattern appear to float. Used for Noh costumes and ceremonial obi belts.
Monori (Monori) Machine-woven using jacquard paper. Can reproduce even the most intricate patterns.
Hikibaku (Hikibaku) A technique in which gold and silver foil is cut into small pieces and woven into threads. Has a luxurious and stately feel.
Futsuuori is a double-layered weave that has different patterns on the front and back. It requires high skill and is used for obi and decorations.
The meaning of patterns found in Nishijin-ori (patterns)
Nishijin-ori patterns are imbued with the Japanese sense of beauty and wishes, including auspicious events, nature, the four seasons, and plants and animals.
Pattern Meaning/Symbol
Crane and Turtle Symbols of longevity and auspicious events. Often used on celebratory obi and costumes.
Pine, Bamboo, and Plum Symbols of immortality, prosperity, and integrity. Often used on celebratory attire.
Shippo Auspicious pattern of successive circles. Represents human connections and infinite prosperity.
Cloud pattern Represents a connection with the heavens, ascension, and the flow of fortune.
Paulownia and Chrysanthemum A dignified pattern used in the crests of the imperial family and noble families.
Wave pattern Symbols of eternity, change, and a peaceful life. Still popular today.
Examples of products that use Nishijin-ori
1. Obi (belt)
When it comes to Nishijin-ori, obi is the most famous.
There are a variety of obi, from formal to casual, such as fukuro-obi, Nagoya-obi, and maru-obi.
Karaori is used for gorgeous obi for wedding dresses and furisode, and for Noh and stage performances.
2. Kimono
It is not common to use Nishijin-ori fabric for kimonos themselves, but it is sometimes used for haori and formal wear.
Especially for crested haori, costumes, and geisha costumes.
3. Interior and miscellaneous goods
More and more modern products are being made using Nishijin-ori techniques.
Cushion covers
Lampshades
Table runners
Tapestries
Folding screens and panel art
4. Contemporary art and fashion accessories
Ties, bags, wallets, and purses made with Nishijin-ori are also popular.
Luxury products in collaboration with overseas brands are also appearing.
Summary: The charm of Nishijin-ori
Nishijin-ori is not just a "luxury fabric," but a work of art woven with the spirituality, culture, and history of the Japanese people. While preserving tradition, it continues to evolve in ways that fit with modern life and fashion, and its possibilities continue to expand.
