KURUME KASURI THREAD

Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese kasuri fabric produced mainly in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture. Its characteristic is the kasuri pattern (a pattern woven with kukuri-dyed thread). The production process of Kurume Kasuri thread is a very time-consuming process that involves a lot of handwork by artisans. The production process is explained in detail below.

 

 

Kurume Kasuri Thread Production Process (General Flow)

1 Design Creation

2 Kasuri Design (Layout)

3 Thread Preparation (Warping and Pre-Weaving)

4 Binding

5 Dyeing

6 Unbinding and Drying

7 Finishing Warping

8 Weaving

 

Details of each process

1. Design creation
The design stage where the type of kasuri pattern is decided.

Patterns can be geometric, floral, or human figures.

In the past, this was done on hand-drawn graph paper, but now computers are also used.

2. Kasuri design (allocation)
Based on the design, it is designed to determine how the threads in each position should be dyed to create the pattern.

The number of threads, length, and parts to be dyed are calculated in detail.

3. Thread preparation (warping and temporary weaving)
The raw threads (mainly cotton threads) are arranged in a certain number and the length is uniform (warping).

Before tying, the threads may be temporarily woven to prevent them from shifting (temporary weaving = temporary winding).

4. Binding (tying)
The process of applying a dye-resistant treatment to the parts where you want the kasuri pattern to appear.

Parts of the threads are tied with "cotton thread" or "vinyl thread" to prevent the dye from soaking in.

This is a very important process, as the accuracy of the kasuri pattern depends on this binding.

5. Dyeing
The bound threads are dyed with indigo or other dyes.

Kurume kasuri mainly uses indigo dyeing (both natural and chemical).

Since the color does not penetrate in one go, the process of dyeing and drying is repeated many times (sometimes more than 20 times).

6. Untying and drying
When the bound parts of the dyed threads are untied, only the tied parts remain white.

This creates the "kasuri pattern" on the threads.

The threads are then hung out to dry.

7. Finishing warping
The untied threads are warped again so that they can be put on the loom.

Careful adjustment is required to ensure that the pattern does not shift.

8. Weaving
The kasuri threads (dyed threads) are woven as warp and weft threads.

The craftsmanship is to make fine adjustments (kasuri matching) while weaving so that the kasuri pattern comes out beautifully.

There are three types of Kurume kasuri: vertical kasuri, horizontal kasuri, and vertical and horizontal kasuri.

 

 

 

Characteristics of Kurume Kasuri
A traditional craft that is hand-tied, hand-dyed, and hand-woven.

It went into decline in the 1950s, but is now being rediscovered thanks to the efforts of young craftsmen.

Its appeal lies in its soft texture and the way it feels more comfortable the more you use it.

 

 

 

 

 

Inheritance of traditional techniques

Kurume Kasuri was designated an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan in 1957, and the conditions for certification are strict:

Use of hand-tied kasuri thread

Dyeing with pure natural indigo

Woven on a Nagehi handloom

Products that meet these conditions are labeled as "Important Intangible Cultural Property" and are sold on the market. This protects the traditional techniques.

 

Introduction of modern technology and training of successors
In addition to passing on traditional techniques, modern technology is also being adopted. For example, at Kurume Institute of Technology, through a repair project for a 100-year-old "Y-type loom," artisans and the university are working together to repair the machine and pass on the techniques. This initiative aims to combine efficiency and tradition.

Fukuoka Prefecture also implements the "Kurume Kasuri Successor Internship," providing a place for inexperienced people to learn traditional techniques. This is helping to pass on the techniques to the younger generation.

Click on the image below to go to the kurume kasuri thread sales page.

 

 

🧵 The origin and beginning of Kurume Kasuri

 

✅ Founder: Den Inoue

 

In the late Edo period (around 1799), Den Inoue, a 12-year-old girl, was inspired by an old piece of cloth she was wearing that had a worn-out pattern on it, and came up with a method for weaving patterns using dyed threads.

She was the daughter of a farmer, but after making improvements, her technique was recognized by the feudal lord, and it became popular under the protection of the Kurume domain.

📌 In other words, Kurume Kasuri has a very unique origin as a traditional Japanese textile invented by a farm girl.

 

🕰️ History of the era

Era Major events

 

Around 1800, Den Inoue invented Kurume Kasuri. He improved dyeing and weaving by himself.

From the 1820s onwards, with the encouragement of the Kurume Domain, kasuri production as an industry expanded.

From the end of the Edo period to the Meiji era, kasuri patterns became more diverse and became known throughout the country. It was also distributed in Kyoto and Edo.

Mid-Meiji era (around 1890) The introduction of machine weaving began, and production increased.

Early Showa era At its peak, there were more than 13,000 weavers.

Postwar to present day Production decreased due to the decline of kimono culture, but it is being reevaluated as a craft, daily necessities, and art material.

 

"An invented by a rural girl becomes a representative Japanese textile culture"

Kurume Kasuri is a craft that embodies the essence of Japanese beauty through handwork, indigo, and geometric patterns, while being made from simple materials rooted in everyday life.

 

For those who want to know more about kurume kasuri, we have some recommended websites in English.

 

If you're looking to explore the traditional craft of Kurume Kasuri in Japan, this comprehensive English guide is a great place to start.
Curated by Fukuoka Now, the Kurume Kasuri Studio Guide lists artisan studios in the Chikugo region where you can observe, shop, or even try your hand at indigo dyeing and weaving.
Perfect for international travelers interested in Japanese textile culture!

FUKUOKA NOW

 

 

Explore Kurume Kasuri with ease—our official multilingual tour guide provides full details in English, Chinese, and more.
You'll find studio profiles, dyeing and weaving tour info, booking instructions, and language support.
Perfect for travelers eager to experience traditional Kurume Kasuri craft firsthand in a foreign-language friendly manner.

▶ Learn more: Kurume Kasuri Multilingual Tour Info
https://kurumekasuri.jp/en/category/tour-info/multilingual/

 

 

Discover the world of Kurume Kasuri, one of Japan’s most treasured indigo-dyed textiles.
On the official English website, you'll find:

• Clear explanations of its history, tying, dyeing, and weaving processes

• A curated guide to studios where you can observe or try hands-on experiences

• Booking info and maps, with multiple language support

Perfect for international travelers and craft enthusiasts—your official gateway to exploring Kurume Kasuri in Japan.

▶ Visit the official site: https://kurumekasuri.jp/en/

 

Kurume Kasuri: Fukuoka’s Living Indigo Tradition
Discover the story behind one of Japan’s most iconic traditional textiles—Kurume Kasuri—on the official tourism site “Crossroad Fukuoka.”
This page explains the origin, weaving process, indigo dyeing techniques, and studio visit options, all in clear English. It’s a perfect starting point for travelers, researchers, and craft lovers curious about this timeless ikat fabric.

▶ Explore Kurume Kasuri here

 

Experience Authentic Kurume Kasuri with Shimokawa Orimono
Shimokawa Orimono, a long-established textile studio in Chikugo, Fukuoka, introduces the beauty of Kurume Kasuri through its official English site. With over 70 years of experience in both handwoven and machine-woven kasuri, the studio merges tradition with innovation.

• Detailed insights into the kasuri production process

• International collaborations with designers from Finland, Sweden, and the Netherlands

• An online shop featuring authentic kasuri fabrics (by the meter or in accessories)

• Videos and articles that highlight cultural heritage and craftsmanship

Whether you're a textile enthusiast, fashion designer, or simply curious about Japanese craft, this site offers a rich introduction to one of Japan’s most iconic indigo-dyed fabrics.

▶ Explore Kurume Kasuri by Shimokawa Orimono

Where Indigo Breathes. Kurume Kasuri.

 

Threads of Tradition. Patterns of the Future.