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▸ Overview
A technique in which gold, silver, colored, or other metallic foil is applied to washi paper or other paper, which is then cut into small pieces and woven into threads.
The name "Hiki" (pull) comes from the process of "pulling" (pasting) the foil onto the paper.
Production process of hikihaku
① Foil beating
Gold or silver foil is made by beating and stretching metal very thinly.
In modern times, imitation foil is also used, which is made by depositing aluminum and processing it into gold color.
② Foil application to washi paper
Gold foil is applied to handmade washi paper (such as ganpishi) using adhesive.
Skilled techniques are required to apply it evenly.
③ Cutting
The washi paper with the foil applied is cut into thin strips of about 0.3mm to 1mm.
Thinly cut pieces are called tachibaku.
④ Processing into foil thread
This cut foil is wrapped around warp or weft silk or polyester threads, or woven directly into the threads to make foil thread.
The structure is similar to slit film yarn, but the texture of the foil is different.
Applications in weaving
▸ Used as a weft
In many cases, hikihaku is woven into textiles as a weft.
It makes the ground pattern or part of the design stand out and gives it a shine.
▸ Types of textiles
Nishijin-ori Karaori, Kinran, Tsuzure-ori, etc.
Widely used in Noh costumes, robes, Buddhist altar implements, wedding attire, and obi (fukuro-obi).
Types of Hikihaku
Type Characteristics
Kin-Hikihaku
The most prestigious type of foil made from gold leaf. A heavy shine.
Gin-Hikihaku
Silver leaf with a refreshing shine. Be careful of discoloration due to oxidation.
Colored foil (saihaku)
Colored foil in blue, red, green, etc., also used for modern decoration.
Patterned hikihaku
Foil paper with a pattern printed or dyed on it and then cut. Highly design-oriented.
The history and cultural value of hikihaku
Hikihaku is said to be a technique that dates back to the Heian period, and was used in ancient times for costumes, folding screens, and Buddhist scrolls.
In particular, the presence or absence of hikihaku determines the formality and elegance of Noh costumes and high-end Nishijin textiles.
It is the culmination of advanced techniques that combine metalwork, paperwork, and dyeing and weaving crafts.
Summary of Hikihaku's characteristics
Characteristics Contents
Shining A heavy and delicate metallic luster. Adds a gorgeous look to kimonos and obi.
Processability A lot of cutting and winding is done by hand, so it requires skill.
Artistic expression that weaves "light" into the fabric.
Luxury Used for formal wear, stage costumes, and other high-class purposes.
Click on the image below to go to the hikibaku sales page.
Go to the Etsy Hikibaku purchase page!
Go to the Hikibaku purchase page on this website!
📜 Origin and history of HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku)
🏺 Origin: Before the Nara Period - Shosoin Treasures
The Shosoin Treasures from the Nara Period (8th century) feature textiles decorated with gold and silver foil (e.g. Nishikiori).
During this period, metal decorative techniques were introduced to Japan under the influence of China (Tang) and India.
👘 Heian Period (794–1185)
It is believed that HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku) techniques were used for high-quality textiles (twill and ramie) used for formal attire and furnishings at the Imperial Court.
It is technically similar to the technique of Buddhist painting decoration called "Kirikane" and is rooted in the same aesthetic sense.
⚔️ Muromachi Period (1336–1573)
The golden age of Noh costumes was upon us, and HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku) made its full appearance.
It was developed by combining various materials such as gold leaf, colored paper, lacquer, and silver dust to create a unique sense of weight and luster.
🏮 Edo period (1603–1868)
It was used extensively in Noh costumes, decorations for shrines and temples, uchikake, and wedding attire, and this was the heyday of HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku) expression.
For example, costumes such as "Noshime" are woven with very intricate hikihaku patterns.
🏭 Meiji and later to present day
It temporarily declined during the Meiji Restoration, but was revived with the technological innovation of Nishijin weaving.
Even in the midst of advances in mechanization such as jacquard looms, HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku) is still protected by artisans as a traditional technique that requires manual labor.
HIKIBAKU (Hikihaku) is a decorative technique that symbolizes the Japanese concept of "elegance in simplicity."
🌐 Modern Applications and Preservation
It is still produced by Nishijin weavers, and some of it is used in the restoration of cultural properties and in the works of Living National Treasures.
Recently, it has also been applied to jewelry, contemporary art, washi stationery, business cards, and lighting fixtures.
Maruhaku Nishimura Shōten: The Masters of Hikibaku
Based in Kyoto’s traditional Nishijin weaving district, Maruhaku Nishimura Shōten specializes in hikibaku—the rare technique of embedding gold or silver foil threads into fabric by hand.
Their official website offers a detailed look into the process, history, materials, and modern applications of this refined Japanese craft. Ideal for textile designers, collectors, and cultural enthusiasts.
▶ Visit the official site
Kohei Murata — Master of Hikibaku Metal Leaf Art
This is the official gallery page of Kohei Murata, a skilled artisan preserving the traditional Kyoto Nishijin technique called hikibaku. By applying gold and silver leaf to washi paper and cutting it into ultra-fine threads (~0.4mm), he weaves these into silk fabric, creating delicate and stunning textile art. His work beautifully blends tradition with modernity, showcasing the unique harmony of Japanese craftsmanship and contemporary design.
Visit the official site
