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"Honba Dorozome" is a traditional dyeing technique practiced in the Amami Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture, centered on Amami Oshima, and is an essential technique in the dyeing process of "Oshima Tsumugi." We will explain it in detail below.
◆ Overview: What is authentic mud dyeing?
Authentic mud dyeing is a unique technique that uses a chemical reaction between a plant dye (techi tree) and the iron in a muddy field to dye fibers, and is one of the rarest dyeing methods in Japan.
"Authentic" refers to the authentic mud dyeing technique that is practiced in Amami, the birthplace of "Authentic Oshima Tsumugi."
◆ The process of making authentic mud-dyed silk thread (silk thread)
① Scouring
Purpose: Remove impurities from silk thread
Silk thread has a membrane of protein called "sericin" that must be removed before it can be dyed.
The thread is washed and dried after being boiled in hot water and alkali (usually soda ash).
The silk's natural luster and dye absorption are enhanced.
② Techi tree dyeing (base dyeing)
Purpose: To infuse the thread with a brown color containing tannins
The dye is made from the Sharinbai tree (local name "techi"), which grows wild on Amami Oshima.
The silk thread is soaked for several hours to absorb the dye.
This process is repeated several times to deepen the color and increase reactivity with iron.
③ Mud dyeing
Purpose: Dye the silk threads blackish brown by reacting iron with the tannins of the tachi tree
The silk threads are placed in a muddy field and dyed while being rubbed well by hand.
Amami's mud is rich in iron, which reacts with the tannins of the tachi tree to turn the threads black (iron-tannin reaction).
After removing the threads from the mud, they are washed with water and dried in the sun.
By repeating this process 20 to 30 times, a deep, deep black color is established.
④ Washing with water and drying in the sun
Between dyeing, the threads are rinsed with water to remove excess mud and dye.
The color is established by drying in the sun.
The threads are carefully loosened by hand while drying. It is a skilled technique to prevent the silk from shrinking or tangling.
⑤ Warping and finishing
The silk threads are **wound to a certain length and tension (warping)** so that they can be used for weaving.
If necessary, it is processed into "kasuri thread" and is ready to be woven into patterns.
Honba Aidorozome is a traditional technique unique to Amami Oshima that combines indigo dyeing and mud dyeing. It is particularly rare among Oshima Tsumugi, and is characterized by its beautiful, deep indigo-black color. We will explain it in detail below.
◆ Overview: What is authentic indigo mud dyeing?
"Indigo mud dyeing" is a traditional dyeing method that produces a deep indigo-black color by dyeing with indigo and then dyeing in mud fields.
We use natural indigo (such as Japanese knotweed) and Amami's unique mud fields that contain iron.
As with the principle of mud dyeing, the plant pigments and iron react chemically to produce a unique color.
The blue of the indigo dye and the brown-black of the mud dye combine to create a unique, deep color tone.
◆ Production process of authentic mud indigo dyed thread (silk thread)
① Scouring
Purpose: Clean the surface of the silk thread to make it easier for the dye to penetrate
Raw silk has a protein membrane called sericin, which is removed with hot water and alkali (e.g. soda ash).
The natural luster and dye absorption (ease of dyeing) of silk are improved.
② Indigo dyeing (natural indigo dyeing)
Purpose: Dye silk thread with indigo blue
The raw material is **natural fermented indigo** made from "polygonum indigo".
The indigo blue color is developed by soaking the thread in an indigo vat for a few minutes, removing it, and exposing it to air to oxidize it.
Repeating this "soaking → removing → oxidizing" process 10 to 20 times will increase the depth of the color.
③ Techi tree dyeing (strengthening the base and mordant)
Purpose: Add vegetable tannins as a base for mud dyeing
The indigo-dyed thread is soaked in a dye liquid made by boiling the Techi tree (wheel plum) of Amami.
Techi trees are rich in tannins, which react with iron in the later mud dyeing process to turn black.
④ Mud dyeing (mud field dyeing)
Purpose: Create indigo black by reacting iron with the indigo + Techi color
The thread is soaked in Amami's natural mud fields, which are rich in iron, and rubbed well.
The iron in the mud and the tannins and indigo in the thread react chemically, turning it into a deep, dark indigo color (indigo black).
This process is repeated several times to give the color depth and uniformity.
⑤ Rinse with water and dry in the sun
Thoroughly wash off any mud or dye residue, and dry in the sun.
Dry while adjusting the air circulation and tension to avoid damaging the silk.
⑥ Warping and finishing
The dyed thread is adjusted in length and direction for weaving (warping).
If necessary, it is made into **kasuri thread (pattern thread)** and further dye-resistant processing is applied using a tightening machine.
◆ The origin of authentic mud dyeing
🔷 Origin: Fusion of nature and human wisdom
Amami's natural environment
Amami Oshima is home to iron-rich mud fields and tannin-rich techi trees (wheel plums).
→ It is believed that the beginning of mud dyeing was when these two were used to dye fabric.
Chemical reaction between plant tannins and iron
When fabric dyed with techi trees is immersed in mud, the iron and tannins react chemically and turn a deep black-brown color.
→ Taking advantage of this natural change, this dyeing technique was established.
What does "authentic" mean?
"Authentic" means "authentic production area" or "area where traditional techniques are used," and specifically refers to the mud dyeing used in "authentic Oshima Tsumugi."
◆ History of authentic mud dyeing
◆ History of Amami Oshima and textiles (from about 1,300 years ago)
Era Event
Nara and Heian Periods
Silk textiles and dyeing techniques from China were introduced to Amami. It is believed that the original form of mud dyeing was born here.
Muromachi to Sengoku Periods
Textiles called "shimanuno" flourished as a local specialty.
Edo Period
Under the control of the Satsuma Domain, "Oshima Tsumugi" became the main tribute item to Amami.
Mud dyeing was officially adopted as a textile dyeing process.
Meiji Period
Oshima Tsumugi began to be distributed nationwide, and the mud dyeing technique became widely known. While mechanization progressed, mud dyeing was passed down as a handiwork of artisans.
Showa to present Days Designated by the government as a traditional craft (Oshima Tsumugi).
Mud dyeing is a dyeing technique unique to Amami and is highly regarded both at home and abroad.
◆ Cultural value of authentic mud dyeing
The foundation of traditional crafts: the dyeing process that can be said to be the lifeblood of "authentic Oshima Tsumugi."
Coexistence with nature: No artificial dyes are used, and natural materials and natural chemical reactions are utilized.
Wisdom for environmental conservation: Sustainability is required in managing mud fields and felling techi trees, and is deeply connected to environmental protection.
Authentic mud dyeing is a unique dyeing technique that combines the nature, culture, and history of Amami.
Authentic mud dyeing is based on over 1,300 years of accumulated wisdom and ingenuity, and even today it continues to inspire many people as a symbol of tradition and innovation.
"The mud of a thousand years dyeing the present."
Official Website of the “Oshima Tsumugi NEXT Project”
This website showcases the rich tradition and innovative future of Oshima Tsumugi, a centuries-old silk textile from Amami Oshima, Japan.
Discover the natural beauty of Dorozome (mud-dyeing), the refined techniques of artisan weavers, and the creative works of the next generation who are breathing new life into this cultural treasure.
Explore how history, craftsmanship, and modern design converge in one of Japan’s most exquisite traditional textiles.
🔗 https://ohshimatsumuginextproject.com/doromuji/
Dorozome.com – The Art of Mud Dyeing in Amami Oshima
This official site introduces the traditional Japanese dyeing technique known as Dorozome (mud dyeing), a centuries-old craft unique to Amami Oshima.
Using natural tannins from the sharinbai (techi tree) and iron-rich mud from the island’s rice paddies, artisans create stunning, deep black shades on silk through a purely natural process.
The site provides a detailed look into the philosophy, history, materials, and delicate steps behind this sustainable and culturally rich dyeing method.
Explore how earth, water, and human hands come together to produce one of Japan’s most distinctive textile traditions.
🔗 https://dorozome.com/mud-dyeing
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