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The traditional technique of making lacquer thread is on the verge of being lost and has not been passed down. We have heard that there is only one shop in Japan that still makes lacquer thread.
I am currently searching for the last lacquer thread maker. I do not want Japan's traditional techniques to disappear.
Urushi thread is made by cutting Japanese paper coated with metal foil or colored lacquer into thin strips and wrapping them around a core thread.
There is also a type in which lacquer is applied directly to the silk thread and then hardened.
Main structure and manufacturing method
General type (Japanese paper-based)
Japanese paper is processed into a long, thin tape
The Japanese paper is coated with lacquer, colored lacquer, gold, silver, vermilion, and other powders
Dry and cut into thin strips
Wrapped around a core thread (silk thread, cotton thread, etc.)
Silk thread-based type (lacquered silk thread)
The lacquer is applied directly to the silk thread, which is then repeatedly applied and dried to create the luster and color
Very rare, as it requires pure manual labor and high skill
Features
Features & Contents
Gloss: Has the moist, elegant luster and depth that is unique to lacquer
Color: Mainly heavy traditional colors such as black lacquer, vermilion lacquer, and gold lacquer
Strength: Coating with lacquer increases durability and gives it a firm feel
Artistic: A material that is especially valued for Nishijin textiles and Noh costumes
Water resistance: The lacquer coating provides a certain degree of waterproofing and weather resistance
The production process of urushi thread is a traditional craft technique that is very delicate and time-consuming. The most typical method is to "apply lacquer to washi paper and process it into threads." Although the process may vary slightly depending on the material, color, and purpose, the following is a detailed step-by-step description of the typical "washi-based lacquer thread" production process.
Urushi thread production process (based on washi paper)
① Preparation of washi paper
The washi paper used is strong and flexible, such as kozo (paper mulberry).
If the thickness and texture are not uniform, it will be prone to cracking in later processes, so high-quality handmade washi paper is used.
② Applying foil to washi paper (optional)
If gold or silver foil is used as decoration, first apply the metal foil to the washi paper.
After applying, press firmly and dry.
③ Adjustment of lacquer
**Urushi** is made by refining raw lacquer.
When making colored lacquer, it is colored by mixing pigments (vermilion, black, silver, gold, etc.).
Lacquer is sensitive to humidity and temperature, so the craftsman's skill is required.
④ Applying lacquer to washi paper
Using a brush or spatula, apply lacquer evenly over the washi paper.
Rather than applying a thick coat in one go, lacquer is applied in thin layers (3-5 or more times) to create luster and strength.
⑤ Drying and hardening
Lacquer does not "dry", but rather "hardens".
It is dried in a "muro" (humid drying room) with a humidity of about 65-80% and a temperature of 20-25°C for several days after each coat.
This process is repeated many times to create a strong and flexible lacquer skin.
⑥ Cutting
The completely dried and hardened washi (lacquer skin) is cut into thin tapes of about 0.3 mm.
High level craftsmanship is required because the finish will not be beautiful unless the thickness is uniform.
⑦ Wrapping around the core thread
The lacquered washi paper is wrapped around a core thread such as silk thread or washi paper thread in a spiral shape.
Adding "twisting" to the wrapping process gives the thread strength and also affects the feel and luster.
⑧ Final Finishing
If necessary, twisting and waterproofing may be applied.
The finished lacquer thread is used for obi fabric, Noh costumes, obi-jime (sash fastenings), braided cords, etc.
Lacquered washi paper is hung like a clothesline and dried quietly in a drying rack.
The sight of the cut lacquer paper being wound up into thin, delicate strips is the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
Experienced craftsmen keep an eye on each and every thread to check the finish.
The urushi thread is a very valuable thread. We must not let the technology die out.
Go to the URUSHI Thread sales page on this site!
Go to the URUSHI Thread sales page on Etsy!
📜 History and origin of genuine lacquer thread (urushi thread)
▶ The use of lacquer dates back to the Jomon period
In Japan, lacquer has been used for waterproofing, adhesion, and decoration since about 9,000 years ago (mid-Jomon period).
The world's oldest lacquer products (combs and pottery) were excavated from ruins in Aomori and Fukushima.
▶ Appearance as a lacquer material for textiles and decoration (from the Middle Ages onwards)
The technique of applying lacquer to Japanese paper and turning it into threads, such as genuine lacquer thread, is thought to have appeared in the Middle Ages (Kamakura to Muromachi periods).
It was especially used decoratively in Noh costumes, decorative cords for Buddhist altar equipment, and military equipment (braided cords for armor and helmets).
▶ Muromachi and Edo periods: Used in Noh costumes and festival costumes
Black accent decorations made of lacquer thread appeared in Nishijin brocade and satin.
Among the noh costumes from the mid-Edo period, there are examples in which **"black lacquer thread" or "vermilion lacquer thread"** is used as part of the pattern.
▶ After the Meiji period: Reevaluated as a luxury textile
The value of it as a craftwork increased, and the fusion of "lacquer x textile" was established as a fine art craft.
Some Nishijin weavers and braid craftsmen inherited the technique, and it is passed down to the present day as lacquer paper thread (shishishi) and lacquer washi paper thread.
"Putting the life of lacquer into thread" -- a fusion of Japanese lacquer culture and weaving
Genuine lacquer thread (Urushi thread) is an extremely rare material with high artistic value, combining the delicate handiwork of the Japanese with the profound spirituality of lacquer.
It also opens up new possibilities for the future of crafts.
There is another rare urushi thread: hon urushi kinsunago thread.
"Hon urushi Kinsunago thread" is an extremely rare and highly-advanced decorative thread used in traditional Japanese embroidery and crafts.
Made using gold powder (sunago) and **honurushi (natural lacquer)**, it is a precious material that has a deep luster, durability, and delicate sparkle.
Hon urushi kinsunago thread is a decorative thread that uses "genuine lacquer" as an adhesive to fix fine gold particles (sand) onto the surface of the thread or washi paper.
🔸 Production process
The production of hon urushi kinsunago thread is a very delicate and time-consuming process. The main steps are shown below.
① Make "sunago" from gold leaf
Pure gold leaf (honkinpaku) is cut or crushed into fine particles
The size of the particles is selected depending on the purpose of embroidery (such as "very small sand").
② Prepare the core thread and core paper
Prepare silk thread or washi paper for the core, and twist it to a moderate thickness or cut the paper into thin strips to make threads
The washi paper may also be covered with silver leaf (to achieve a reflective effect on the base)
③ Apply real lacquer to the thread
Lacquer is used as a natural adhesive and is applied very thinly and evenly
This work is carried out in a humidity-controlled space called a **muro** (humidity is required for lacquer to dry)
④ Sprinkle and fix gold sand
Spread (maku) the gold sand evenly before the lacquer dries
The finish changes greatly depending on the viscosity and amount of lacquer, so skilled techniques are required
⑤ Drying and finishing
Let it dry completely in the room for several days
Lightly polish the surface as necessary to smooth it out
"Putting the life of lacquer into thread" -- a fusion of Japanese lacquer culture and weaving
Go to the urushi kinsunago thread sales page.
